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How I missed my flight and still made it to my Dream Destination

As I signed the last document in office, with one eye on my watch, I realized I was going to miss my flight.

I was flying to Bombay tonight and had a connecting flight to Istanbul in the early hours of the morning. Istanbul !!!! The city of my dreams and Turkey – a country I had been planning to visit for almost 5 years now. There were bittersweet connotations to my longing for Turkey, but I was determined to make it this time, missed flight or no missed flight. This was a trip with WeGoBond– whose charms I had already experienced in my earlier, near magical trip to Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. Shibani from WeGoBond is known to plan trips down to the last detail and always adds interesting elements, so I was super excited ! To cut a long story short, I hopped into a cab from office, canceled my Bombay flight, booked a later one and still made it for my connecting flight

Day 1 (2nd October) : Istanbul. As I emerged from the airport into this dream of a city straddling Europe and Asia, I felt like a conqueror. After the Greeks, Persians and Romans – I was going to discover Istanbul and make it my own. The airport is well-connected to the city-centre by the Metro and a short ride and change of trains later, I emerged into the charming Istiklal Caddesi – a high street full of shops, pubs, restaurants, pattiseries, theatres and a tram line that runs right through the middle.

A quick check-in at our hotel and we were ready to step out to discover what Istanbul had in store for us. We walked down the cobbled streets, past the Galata Tower and flanked on both sides by shops selling everything touristy – musical instruments, Beautiful glass and mosaic lamps, Turkish towels and soaps, magnets, colorful Turkish carpets and kilims and mounds upon mounds of the local delicacy – Turkish Delight (or as it is known locally – Loqum).

As we emerged, an estuary of the Bosphorus lay in front of us, gleaming blue – a stretch of water separating two districts of the city. We walked across the Galata bridge and saw locals with fishing rods positioned for the best catch over the bridge. A quick stop at the Rustam Pasha Mosque with beautiful tile work in its interiors (it reminded me of the Delft Blue Pottery of the Netherlands, though the designs are very different) and a snack of Doner Kabab later, we were famished. Dinner was at a beautiful water-side restaurant under the Galata bridge, where we met Emre – our guide for the trip, but all I remember of that night is my introduction to Raki. It is the local tipple, an unsweetened, aniseed flavoured alcoholic drink that goes smoothly down one’s throat. Raki had me at hello and was my constant companion every night spent thereafter in Turkey !

Tourist Tip : While you may be tempted to buy souvenirs in Istanbul, try to avoid that and buy them only in other smaller towns like Cappadocia where they are far cheaper. What to buy ? Lots !!! Bags, shoes, carpets, rugs, Warm ponchos, Turkish dolls, magnets, ceramic ware, soaps, Turkish towels, key rings and other trinkets with the famous Turkish Evil Eye design to ward off evil spirits

Day 2 (3rd October) : Istanbul (Old City) : Most of today would be spent wandering among the mosques and palaces of the Sultan Ahmet Square, including the Blue Mosque. To match, I was wearing white and blue today. If you are doing this on your own keep at least a day and that may still be less to take in all the magnificence that is on offer.

Beautifully maintained by the government, these historic monuments are silent sentinels of the bygone era, one that is cris-crossed with Roman, Greek, Byzantine and many other influences. We visited the famed Blue Mosque, the Haga Sophia – which was a church and was then turned into a moslem place of worship (fascinating to see Christian and Muslim religious imagery exist side by side), The Topkapi Palace (immaculate lawns and grounds) and the Basilica Cistern

Copious amounts of Turkish tea in small glasses were had and lunch was an interesting Turkish dish called Testi Kabab. As tasty as its name, it is cooked in a sealed clay pot and is brought to the tables and broken in front of the diners with a flourish by the waiter, the warm meat tumbling out to appease hungry palates. The day ended with a visit to the much talked about Grand Bazaar. Like Alladin’s cave, this treasure trove contains many treasures including jewellery and leather jackets. Bargain like your life depends on it and enjoy the experience of soaking in the sights and smells of Turkish men and women selling their wares to unsuspecting tourists. On the way back, we stopped for another Turkish delicacy – Kumpir. Kumpir is also called the Turkish Subway Sandwich….a huge baked potato that is split open, the soft flesh mashed together with copious amounts of butter and cheese and then stuffed with meat and other toppings of your choice. It’s a veritable party-in-a-potato….Thus satisfied and further fortified with raki, we made our way back to our hotel.

Day 3 (4th October) : Istanbul : A glorious day again, we had been lucky so far and were getting beautiful sunny weather with slight winds in Istanbul. After a wonderful breakfast with a view at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, we trooped to our bus which took us to Dolma Bahce Palace today – another outrageously lavish and beautiful palace. After oohing and ahing over its baccarat crystal chandeliers, we hopped over to the Bosphorus for a cruise down its famed blue waters – an experience not to be missed. Lunch was at one of Istanbul’s most famous restaurants, Hamdi and after stuffing ourselves with the choicest meats, we made our way to Spice Market and the Arasta Bazaar where I was introduced to the delights of Turkish Apple tea, which I was happy to have endless amounts of. After wandering through markets we headed back to the hotel and came out for a last drink in Istanbul – I was sad to go but I knew I would be back in this beautiful city that welcomes strangers with open arms.

Day 4 (5th October) : Kusadasi : We flew out of Istanbul and halfway across Turkey into the beach town of Kusadasi. Kusadasi is the stopping point for the luxury cruise ships that sail on the Aegean and also a base location for numerous day trips to places in and around Kusadasi. Its a quaint little beach town with restaurants and pubs dotting the seafront. On the way to Kusadasi from the airport, we stopped at a lovely organic restaurant for lunch. Fresh produce in jars, a lovingly-served 4 course meal which included Manti – the Turkish version of Yoghurt covered Ravioli, red-wine and the for desert – the largest juiciest grapes I had ever seen or eaten.

We reached our lovely hotel in Kusadasi and tired after the long journey, some of us made our way to a Turkish Hamam – the local way of taking a community bath. It consists of a large heated room with various bath kiosks. You keep your clothes in a locker, enter the hamam, take a bath in one of the open bath kiosks, along with everyone else and lay down on the large heated marble stone at the centre of the Hamam. Lay as long as you need to feel relaxed, post which one of the attendants will scrub you and bath you – leaving you refreshed. Now – here’s a quick warning – the Turkish Hamam is not for the squeamish. If you are not comfortable taking a community bath (and all its accompanying baggage), then don’t venture into it. But if you are all for trying new experiences, go for it and decide for yourself if it is for you.

Day 5 (6th October ) : The ruins (and cats) of Ephesus : Today was spent wandering among the ruins of Ephesus. Ephesus is an ancient city in Turkey’s Central Aegean region, near modern-day Selçuk. Its excavated remains reflect centuries of history, from classical Greece to the Roman Empire – when it was the Mediterranean’s main commercial center – to the spread of Christianity.

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While most of the city has been reduced to rubble and a few columns, the library and Ampitheatre (remember the Farhan Akhtar – Priyanka Chopra scene from Dil Dhadakne Do ? Yes yes, we posed at the same spots) remain glowing examples of the stunning architecture. And let me tell you about the cats of Ephesus- while there are cats everywhere in Turkey – sunning themselves on carpets, sleeping in the middle of the road, curled up on benches or just watching regally as the world hurries past – the cats of Ephesus were a breed unto themselves. Running swiftly among the ruins – almost like tourist guides, perched upon broken columns like descendants of some mysterious gods or lapping water from the square holes carved into the stones, the cats of Ephesus could have told us a tale or two about the secrets of the city, if only they could talk ! This day full of history was rounded off by a visit to the house where the Virgin Mary is believed to have lived and the site where the Temple of Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World) once existed. All that remains today is a single pillar. Another day well spent and another evening in the company of wonderful women !

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Day 6 (7th October ) : Unesco World Heritage Site of Hierapolis-Pamukkale : If you search for pictures of Turkey on the internet – chances are that photos of Pamukkale are what you will see first. Surreal and immensely photogenic, these hot spring pools contained within calcite terraces are carved out from the cliffside and I was waiting eagerly to see if the place was as beautiful as its photos. Deriving from springs in a cliff almost 200 m high overlooking the plain, calcite-laden waters have created at Pamukkale (Cotton Palace) an unreal landscape, made up of mineral forests, petrified waterfalls and a series of terraced basins. At the end of the 2nd century B.C. the thermal spa of Hierapolis was established. The ruins of the baths, temples and other Greek monuments, including an extensive necropolis (A necropolis is a large ancient cemetery ) can be seen at the site. Straightaway let me tell you that the springs at Pamukkale are as beautiful as its pictures – though – disappointingly – very crowded. Go barefoot and splash your way into the springs – if you’re feeling adventurous (like one of us did), don a bathing suit and soak in the goodness of the minerals and hope to get miraculously cured of all your ills. The hot springs and a cold-ice cream later, we were on our way to our hotel for the night where dinner and a belly dance performance later, we tucked into bed early, for our long drive to Cappadocia the next day

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Day 7, 8 and 9 (8th, 9th, 10th October ) : Cappadocia : If you ask me to give you a detailed description of the next 3 days, I would be hard pressed to remember exact events. What I do remember is that I never ever wanted to leave Cappadocia. Was it the first sight of the fairy chimneys (tall, cone-shaped rock formations) that had doors and windows carved into them and people still living inside, was it the early morning hot air balloon ride (followed by Champagne) over this surreal fairytale landscape, was it the performance by the Whirling Dervishes (A Sufi Order founded by Rumi’s followers) that left me strangely calm and soothed, was it a visit to the underground cities in the region that had me both fascinated and terrified at the darkness and sadness of it all, was it the kindness and courtesy of a restaurant owner letting some of us take over the kitchen to cook an Indian dish that we were desperately missing, or was it being greeted in Bengali (yes yes, Bengali !) by a Turkish shop owner who had picked up the language from his time in Bangladesh where he spent a year teaching carpet making to young, underprivileged girls or was it the unbelievably charming cave hotel that we stayed in. Perhaps it was all of them, perhaps it was none of them, but I do know that WHEN (not IF) I go back to Cappadocia, I will spend many more days soaking in the charm of the place.

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Soon it was time for us to head back home. A beautiful country, warm if slightly gruff people but hearts as soft as loqum, food to die for and fabulous shopping – that sums up Turkey for me. The trip had WeGoBond’s trademark touches – meticulously planned, everyone’s needs taken care of (including vegans, non-onion and garlic eating travelers and vegetarians), throwing in the unusual, painstakingly researched itinerary and hotels that shone brightly like hidden gems. And the key ingredient in this cocktail was wonderful travel companions and wonderful friends that I made. WeGoBond– cant wait to travel with you again !!! Shibani – what do you have up your sleeve next ?

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I had always wanted to travel, but as a single woman I had no idea how to go about it. Then I saw a post by WeGoBondin a Facebook group regarding an all-women tour to Andretta, Himachal Pradesh. The funny thing is, I have never travelled before, and had never even heard of this place Andretta! But I got this positive gut feeling about this tour, so I immediately booked my spot. My excitement grew day by day as the date of our departure neared. I would be travelling with a group of other women travellers, and the idea of this all-women trip sounded so much fun!

And finally it was time to leave! There is no doubt that there was magic in the air the night we left. I got my favorite berth–the side upper—in the train from Delhi to Pathankot. Yeah!! Andretta is a four-hour drive from Pathankot and there were Innovas booked to take us there. The atmosphere had a feel-good element to it, and of course I was happy and excited… But when we reached the home-stay booked for us, I was left breathless…

It was drizzling lightly, and everything looked so bright and fresh… The cheerful chirping of the birds… Dainty cottages set in the foothill of a small hill… The narrow footpath leading to the cottages lined with flowering shrubs on both sides… The air heavy with the scent of spring blossoms and the fragrance of the wet earth… Wow!! Just how surreal everything was! I felt as if I had walked right into some children’s fairy-tale!

I kind of went into the real-life mode at the meal time. I am a vegan, and how convenient would it be for me to get a decent vegan meal? I need not have worried! To my surprise, the kitchen staff, and even the owners of the cottage took extra efforts to ensure that I felt at home. Over the course of our stay, they actually made many special vegan dishes for me in addition to what were by default vegan–ratatouille, apple crumble with coconut flakes, raw fruit cake with spicy ginger syrup, banana ice cream with choco sauce n almonds, vegetable pie, and sandwiches with home-baked vegan bread!! Wow!!

Andretta’s such a beautiful place, all calm and peaceful—away from the hustle-bustle of city life. I went for long walks and discovered a couple of streams, trekked over a small hill, observed the greenery and flowers, watched the birds, and took a lot of pictures. WeGoBondhad also booked pottery classes for us.

Andretta’s such a beautiful place, all calm and peaceful—away from the hustle-bustle of city life. I went for long walks and discovered a couple of streams, trekked over a small hill, observed the greenery and flowers, watched the birds, and took a lot of pictures. WeGoBondhad also booked pottery classes for us.

The highlight of the tour was the paragliding. I will never forget the drive to Bir-Billing. Those narrow, precariously winding www.viagrasansordonnancefr.com mountain roads… The light drizzle, the wispy white clouds floating by… The Rhododendron trees in full bloom, studded with blood red flowers–a pop of color in the dreamy, misty atmosphere of the hills… The excitement kept on building until it was time to actually paraglide—what an awesome experience it was! Floating above the green hills, with snow-capped mountain ranges glistening silver in the background, the huge Rhododendron trees looking like rose bushes below you, the cool mountain air caressing your face… So exhilarating-totally out of the world!!

By the time we boarded the train back to Delhi, I was totally exhausted but deeply fulfilled. The experience was so rejuvenating and spiritually uplifting. I sincerely feel blessed to have been on this trip, and am eagerly looking forward to travel with WeGoBondagain.

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I found my mecca – memories of spiti valley

Some places touch the eyes…and some, the heart!

It was a February night when I lay on my bed, checking my Facebook alerts, etc., and I came across this group called WeGoBondthat was conducting a 10-day trip to Spiti Valley. I have to confess, I had not even heard of this place before that moment. But, you know, how they say that there are some people who you may meet for the first time, but it still feels like you’ve known them forever…I felt this convinced about and connected to Spiti Valley as soon as I just read the name and saw a couple of pictures of the place. Yes, it, indeed, was like a ‘love at first sight’ kind of an affair!

And, things were just meant to be and let this love affair click. Within just a couple of hours, I wrote to Shibani, got the details…and…I was set to take the trip.

The entire experience of Spiti Valley is way beyond words, and definitely beyond the photos that the best of photographers could capture. You simply can’t get enough of the place. The extremes and extremities of nature’s wonders — from the enormity of the mountains, to the silent, yet strong rivers, to the lush greenery — this journey has it all. It’s impossible to fathom the extremities that this place brings with it. Also, there is this huge element of raw and rustic flavour — from the food, to the simplicity in the lifestyle — that, literally, makes you realise how far away you are from the basic, untouched, yet beautiful realities of life. This place doesn’t just simply let you breathe fresh air, it, literally, makes you breathe simplicity and the pure and untouched side of life.

Of course, ironically, once I was back from the trip, I was back to the hustle and bustle of daily life…making me miss the peace, calm and simplicity even more. Even today (practically two months after the trip), whenever I am relaxing while doing yoga, I, literally, have the breathtakingly beautiful view of ChandraTaal lake right in front of my eyes. It’s like a bout of withdrawal that I experience so often.

While I can get into the details of each and every place that we visited, I would prefer not doing so, as it may just act like a spoiler and give away so much about the place. One of the 13 lovely ladies on the trip aptly said, “Dil hi nahi bharta hai” (the heart just can’t get enough of this place!). And, I totally echo that sentiment. There is just something about this place that makes you want more, more, and lots more of it.

The one other really amazing thing that Spiti has done to me is that it has reawakened my love and passion for travelling, which had taken a backseat because of the way one runs around in life and is constantly keeping pace with a number of personal affairs, professional commitments, and just that unknown, unexplainable thing that stops you from packing your bag.

I would go far as saying that Spiti is like the Mecca for all lovers of nature and peace — it would be a sin if you miss being here, at least, once in your life.

To conclude, all I can say is — Spiti, thank you so much for making me realise that finally, it’s time to stop…time to pack…and time to soak in the joys of travelling and the wonders of nature.

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I signed up for the Meghalaya trip blindly due to my faith in WeGoBond(having done the unforgettable Bhutan trip with them) and the trip leader and good friend Sejal.

Day 1:

Ganga and I landed in Guwahati at 18:00 PM. I always fancied having someone stand at the airport holding a placard with my name on it. So eagerly I scanned the jostling placards…no luck…apparently I am quite recognizable… not sure which vital statistics of mine were described to the charming guide Kulen who was waiting.

Serpentine roads, pleasant weather and lots of wine bars dotted the 3 hour journey to Shillong. I suffer from motion sickness and sure enough began to feel nauseous. Prayers to Goddess Hygieia (health) and we reached the charming Aerodene cottage; our stay in Shillong. We could not meet the rest of the group who were out exploring Shillong as we were the last to arrive (why…a story to be told for another day…do I hear Sejal sniggering as she reads this). A simple yet delish meal awaited us. Got introduced to the vegetable squash and I am a fan for life.

Day 2:

Come morning and looked like the rain gods responded instead of Goddess Hygieia…you think proxy works in the heavens?? The skies opened and heavy rains showered. My heart sank…all my lovely clothes more suited for the beach were now in vain. Out came the really ugly rain poncho which made me look like a cross between superman and bat man. I am vain and make no bones about it. So the rain poncho gave me a lot of grief.

At breakfast we met up with the rest of the group. Few were WW repeaters. Over the course of the trip we bonded over our fondness for laughter, wit, travel, tomfoolery, food…the list is endless. We were 12 in total split between 4 Innovas. The incessant rain accompanied us to the Mawphlang Sacred forest. The entrance is guarded by megaliths or giant stones believed to be centuries old. These are protected forests and a lot of stories and legends abound the area. We walked in to the canopy of trees and were transported to a different world – the velvet moss covered fallen logs, little brooks, shrubs glistening with water droplets, ancient burials and the veil of the mist was a picture to behold. We spied a pine tree (I forget the name) an endangered species which seeds once in 300 yrs. It is now 273 years old.

The guide updated us on the Khasi culture. I asked the guide if he would wear the traditional attire for his wedding, he said, “Nope! I will wear a tux.” J So much for traditions!!!

We then decided to embark on the David Scott trail which is a 16 km trek….. Too ambitious, the rains had made the grounds slippery…we lost a couple of members as they had encountered the ground rather painfully and decided to return to the warmth of the vehicles. The rest of us decided to trudge along. The valley looked lovely and I am sure it would have been awe-inspiring on a clear day. But this trek is probably not for amateurs. We collectively decided to abandon the trek, took the obligatory pictures and returned to our vehicles.

We lunched at Café Shillong Heritage, Tripura Castle. Great ambience, good food (Bastenga- local food) and totally recommended. I got talking to the manager and was told that the Tripura prince loves dogs and the castle is home to 147 mongrels. It’s a dog’s world I guess!

Post lunch some opted to repose and the rest visited one of the oldest churches in Meghalaya – All Saints Cathedral, a charming church rebuilt in the early 1900s. We also visited Shillong Catholic Cathedral but we could have given it a miss unless we wanted to sound out the Weather God.

We dined at the rooftop nightclub Cloud 9. Live music, good food, whiskey sours (thanks Shilpa J) and laughter – great combination so fun times it was.

Day 3:

The weather was the same…rains…by now we were getting kinda used to it. After breakfast, off we went to the local market, Bara bazaar. It was wet and dirty. Only the vibrant vegetables added color to the drab atmosphere. Plus in the narrow alleys, I was trying to maneuver with a large golf umbrella and ended up dripping rainwater into the local folks’ hot chais…the dirty looks I got…I scuttled out pretty quick. Stopped at Bata for rain proof sandals as both my sets of shoes were sodden and stank to the heavens.

We proceeded to Elephanta falls which is a waterfall in three stages. Due to the rains the falls were in full force. The falls are lovely but the crowded area, touristy and cemented look around it took away the beauty. The weather was a bit of a dampener so we circumvented and did a quick tour. Sonia and her daughters Nadine and Mallika hired the traditional costumes and made a colourful picture.

Cherrapunji: I was excited…my geography lessons and now I get to see the wettest place on Earth and it totally lived up to its title. We lunched at Orange Roots which was a South Indian restaurant. Being from the South, I was like… seriously rice and sambhar in Cherrapunji!!!

We reached Polo Orchid Resort our accommodation for the next 2 days. This resort is located opposite the famous Nongsithiang Waterfalls (also called Seven sister falls). A breathtaking sight I am sure but the heavy mist totally obscured our viewing. The hotel had comfortable large rooms but lacked the character of Aerodene Cottage. The food was good and the staff courteous. That day was wasted due to the heavy rains. We were a bit tired from the road trip. By this time I had discovered Avomine tabs and my serpentine journeys were now enjoyable. In the evening, we grouped in one of the rooms as was our customary habit to chill and listen to Dia belt out yet another song which was always a delight. Another day ended.

Day 4:

This day turned out to be one of the most memorable days for us. At 6:00 AM we ventured out to see the Seven Sister falls. For our luck there was a break in weather and briefly the veils of the mist parted to give us a glimpse of the magnificent falls. I could see about 5 strands before the mist covered the view. But I was elated.

We then proceeded to see the fourth highest waterfall in the world. Falling from a height of 1,100 feet, Nohkalikai Falls are spectacular. But no luck, the mist decided to play hide and seek. Armed with hot chais, we stared intently in to the mist hoping for a glimpse but the viewing proved elusive.

Our next stop, the Mawsmai caves. The tourists are allowed to access up to 150 mtrs of the limestone caves. The caves were not lit so we used our mobile flashlights, kicked off our shoes though I hung on to my “Bata” sandals and entered the caves. It involved a lot of body contouring to proceed through…I thanked my yoga teacher…to his horror it took me a month to touch my toes J We all loved the experience and the challenge. The stalactites formations were interesting. Hats off to Jyothi who lugged her heavy camera in to the caves to take the pictures.

We returned to the hotel, breakfasted and set off to view the double decker bridge. The double-decker and single-decker root bridges are unique to Meghalaya, some are believed to be about 500 years old and are grown not built!

Now, I had not done homework before I embarked on my Meghalaya journey. So I went to see the living roots bridge with no pre-conceived notion which according to me is the best thing I have ever done. Usually I read up or do a lot of research before a holiday that I am constantly correcting guides and get dirty looks for my earnestness.

We reached the starting point of our trek. We were told that to reach the bridge we need to cross 3500 steps. Gulp!!! A sprightly young guide Frederick joined us. He has sometimes made the journey more than a couple of times a day. Goodness!!

Rough cemented steps are created for the tourists. But I am thinking they miscalculated the average foot size and I found myself walking sideways. The steps are almost vertical on the way down and if you look at it…your head may reel. So we literally just concentrated one step at a time. Mild showers helped cool us down. Liane who is in to fitness and I whose idea of exercise is looking at other people exercise went ahead. The vista was fantastic and the climb challenging. Not many tourists attempt this climb so most times we were alone in the rain forests. After about an hour, we came upon a steel cable bridge. It was a sight to behold. The rapids and rocks that we could view under the bridge were scary. I set off and the bridge got wobbly. I absolutely loved it. We crossed yet another cable bridge.

We began to tire and just when we thought we need to rest and take a breather…through the branches of the trees…we suddenly had our first glimpse of the double decker bridge. We instinctively looked at each other and with a renewed burst of energy scrambled up the steps to view the bridge.

The sheer rawness of nature, the stark beauty…. I do not have words to describe the visual treat, the click says it all. The rest of the team joined us at varied intervals. We soothed our feet in the swirling waters. The trek back to the starting point was a test to our endurance. Climbing 3500 steps….I was lucky to spot an eighty year old man ahead of me and with this inspiration I was able to reach in record time. Arpita was the last to reach but a hot cup of tea revived her pretty quick and she was back to her bubbly self. Needless to say, that was our last activity for the day.

Day 5:

After the trek the previous day, we were in agony, unused muscles made their presence known. Most of us were walking in a disjointed manner. Even lifting the foot to take a step forward involved a lot of effort. We left Cherrapunji and drove to Langkawet a remote village. We stayed in rustic cottages and bonded over hot food.

Baccardi resulted in “new” friends much to Suprr’s disgust. J The rains followed us. Some opted for a short trek in the rain. I opted for the warm bed and sank in to oblivion only to be rudely awakened two hours later by Sejal because she was bored and wanted to talk. I had a good mind to push her out in the rain and continue with my sleep. But I am ‘sweet’ as is often told to me, obliged and probably bored her with my outbursts J

During the trip, my aunt often referred to me as ‘Princess’ which loosely translated to – get off your high horse and come down to earth girl. But the term caught on and I was teased mercilessly. I have a problem… if someone gives me a pseudo name I begin to act like one. So many had to put up with my “princess” behavior but I am not to be blamed. I was just living up to my name J I am now called pumpkin but optimistic me is behaving like Cinderella at the ball rather than look in to the mirror and get a reality check.

Day 5 was at leisure which is good after the amazing treks the previous day.

Day 6:

We proceeded towards Shillong. En route we stopped to see the single living roots bridge. It is a short trek and the bridge is spectacular. We visited the cleanest village in Asia; Mwallynong. It was a lovely stroll through the mist. I fell in love with the quaint church there. The cute children playing in the lanes warmed our heart. We had the option of trekking to an abandoned village but by now I had removed the word ‘trek’ from my dictionary. I was like there must be a good reason that the village is abandoned let us respect that and keep away.

Post lunch we reached Shillong. The rain had lessened and we had brief dry spells. Evening we roamed the bazaars for keepsakes for family and friends. A good night’s rest followed by breakfast, it was now time to bid goodbye.

Day 7:

As we sped to the Guwahati airport, we glimpsed the impressive Umiam lake which is a reservoir. We stopped at Ri Kynjai, a luxury getaway resort. The unusual architecture, interiors and scenic beauty makes it a must visit. We had authentic Assamese food at Paradise in Guwahati.

I like travelling and now that I do not have as much responsibilities as my kids are all grown up I indulge. I had never been to the North East of India and Meghalaya seemed like a good start. I came away with a lot of memories. Yes, the rains inconvenienced us…yes…our clothes and shoes were constantly damp…yes we could not view some of the falls which was a bummer. But what I experienced was a way of life. As we sit in our AC cabins and crib away at little things, school kids brave the rains and go to school. They have 2 sets of clothes with them always; wet and dry. People are out in the rain doing their chores. Wheel barrows are fashioned out of wood and used. Bridges are grown. The roads are so well maintained. If there is a landslide within hours it is cleared. I never imagined that I would do the 7000+ steps in record time, I totally impressed myself. Of course it does not take much for me to get impressed J but I surpassed my expectations. Old friendships just got stronger. The visual treat that is Meghalaya was soothing to the soul. I appreciate vegetarian fare now. I learnt from my fellow travelers and have tucked away all the little memories which will remain etched in my memory for a long time. I did not think I would miss my hideous rain poncho but I did.

So thank you WW for providing yet another memorable holiday and so much more…muahhhh!

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Hampi – magical ruins amongst boulders

Earlier this month I received an unexpected call. WeGoBondwas having a trip to Hampi and they had a vacant spot. Would I be interested to go?

Well having been in Bangalore for almost 11 years, Hampi was on my bucket list. This was a trip I could not refuse. And I am glad I took it.

As usual WeGoBondtakes women who are on their own trip. So we had an amazing and very diverse group of 12 women, from different parts of India of all shapes, sizes and temperaments! And no one I knew.

Hampi – the site of the imperial city of Vijayanagara is located on the Tungabhadra river in central Karnataka. Vijayanagara’s fame derives from its role as capital of South India’s largest, wealthiest and most powerful kingdom The Vijayanagara Empire : hence it’s name ‘City of Victory’.

Hampi’s remarkable landscape surrounded by miles and miles of giant sized boulders, its religious associations and ongoing archaeological investigations make it a destination of international significance.

The city of Vijayanagara lasted only 229 years between 1336 and 1565 yet it has left an indelible mark in its influence, history, architecture and art to make it one of the most remarkable sites in India.

We made our way thru the dry heat to a tiny village of Anegundi where we stayed at a quaint little resort. The next day began our historical journey.

Hampi is divided mainly into 2 parts ie the Sacred Centre and the Royal Enclosure. Today we visited the Sacred Centre. My first view of the huge stone chariot in the Vitthala Temple was truly overwhelming. This temple is supposed to be the first Vitthala temple which was subsequently moved to Punderpur which is an important temple for Maharastrians.

Our next stop was the Virupaksha temple which has a 50 meter high Gopuram Tower, a coronation mandapa of King Krishnadeva Raya and dedicated shrines of Goddesses Pampa Devi ( from where the name Hampi is derived) and Bhuvaneshwari Devi. This is the only active temple in Hampi.

The other sites we visited were the Hemakuta Hill which houses 2 epic and large Ganesha statues. Sadly these bear the scars of the city’s destruction as large chunks were broken off in the invasion with the Moguls. Then there was the Krishna Temple and the Narasimha statue which stands nearly 7 meters high and is one of the most recognizable landmarks of Hampi. We stopped at a beautiful restaurant called the Mango Tree located in the market place for lunch.

The second day was a surprise in itself. It was a reluctant 4.30 am wake up and we walked thru the darkness with mobile lights and couple of torches towards a waiting Coracle. These are large baskets made from bamboo and are used to ferry people across the Tungabhadra river. Darkness surrounded us and the sound of waking birds and gushing water was an amazing day starter. As light fell on the boulders we reached the other side of the river, from where it was a steep uphill climb on the Matanga hill. It is hard to explain what awaited us. This is something that has to be experienced…… explanation cannot do justice to this. It was the most breathtaking view of Hampi. The silence of dawn was broken by chirping of birds and chants from the distant Virupaksha temple as we climbed about 500 steps meandering our way to the top of the hill. The rays of the morning light on the boulders and the serenity of the environment is something I will carry with me for a long time to come.

That afternoon was reserved for the Royal Enclosure visit.

The first stop was the Mahanavami Dibba – a massive pavilion of 40 square meters which was the viewing area on which the royal family and attendants would gather and watch various religious celebrations like Mahanavami (Navratri) which till date remains an important event for Hampi.

Then there was the stepped tank made of green chlorite with a fine geometric symmetry to it. This site was excavated relatively recently in the 1980’s

We visited the Queen’s bath and the Hazara Rama temple which has 1000 sculptures of Lord Rama from where it derives its name. Another amazing site was the Elephant stables which had 11 large domes.

Our guide Vijay Rao was carrying comic books from Amar Chitra Katha and it was a pleasure to go back in time and actually make funny connections to comics I had read many many moons ago. The last evening culminated in a bonfire and a community jamming session by a local group who were a mix of firangs, locals and hippies! The music from the Didgeridoo created magic in the atmosphere. It was a perfect finale to an eventful break.

The trip has been overwhelming and beautiful. The group was small. The memories are big and the experience mind blowing.

A tick mark on my bucket list ….. indeed!

Photographs – Shibani Vig

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I travelled to Andretta over the recent long Easter weekend with WeGoBond. I had heard of Andretta before, seen photos of the mountains and admired their pottery at bazaars in Delhi. I always wanted to visit but had never gotten the opportunity. When I saw the announcement of the trip, I immediately signed up.

We started off from Majnu ka Tila in Delhi by overnight bus and arrived early morning in Kangra and then subsequently to the homestay, The Mirage in Andretta. We arrived at the crack of dawn and it was still dark and light slowly dawned. Walking up the narrow path, we could smell jasmine flowers and hear the call of birds. It was a refreshing change from polluted and noisy Delhi.

The next three days were fabulous, spent in the lap of nature. Amidst lush green trees, chirping birds and a view of snow capped Dhauladhar range of mountains, which felt close enough that we could touch it. My days were spent hiking, relaxing, chatting and making new friends, reading, doing pottery and exploring the small village.

The Mirage is a beautiful homestay with heritage buildings built in old style architecture but with modern facilities. The host Dennis is warm and hospitable sharing stories of his time in the village. The food was freshly cooked, with delicious local produce like peanut butter, marmalade, yoghurt and jam.

I went for two sessions of pottery at Andretta pottery and was trained by the young, talented Shubham Sakhyan. He patiently taught us novices how to work the clay and potter’s wheel. It was fun even though hard to work the manual potter’s wheel. I came away making a small bowl, which felt like a major achievement!

The village has the Shobha Singh gallery, Nora Richards’s house and other charming cottages, fields surrounded by mountains. Our two hour hike one morning with Dennis took us through the forest and up and down a hill, exploring forgotten trails with beautiful morning views of the mountains.

Our last day was spent exploring Kangra fort with an audio tour where Roshan Seth’s voice made the fort and its inhabitants from centuries ago come alive.

I came away from the holiday refreshed, recharged and ready to face the real world again. With hopes of coming back to Himachal Pradesh sometime soon.

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It is exactly two weeks today since I got back from Spiti but I already want to go back! Is it soon, I ask myself? And then I realize, deep down, I never wanted to return. But since that was not possible, I left a large part of me there. That way, in search of that, I will always find ways of going back.

I have had the luxury of being a world traveller since the last 35 years. No place would touch me the way Ladakh did in India, and Kenya, from amongst the ones abroad. Or so I thought. Till I felt Spiti.

Spiti is remote. Spiti is harsh. Spiti is stark. Spiti is beautiful. Spiti is magic. It tears your heart out, it wrenches your gut, it makes you cry but always leaves you wanting for more!

Its beauty has a vibe which makes one almost cry at times; there is an aura and a peace to the prevailing quietitude. I have never felt closer to the powers that look upon us and to myself as I did in Spiti.

You may think, on reading the above, that I spent all the time by myself. On the contrary; but Spiti called out for some moments only with self and I am happy I succumbed to that charm.

Spiti and the tour was all I had ever imagined it to be! It must be after years quite literally that I was on holiday w/o any family member and in a group where I knew no one. The anonymity that comes on such a journey is liberating. I would have liked to do it in 2015 when I turned 50 but I’m glad this worked out when it did because I was meant to do this with WeGoBond and with this wonderful group of people.

Group travel is addictive in its own way and a terrain like Spiti becomes more doable in a group. WeGoBond had an itinerary which left space for flexibility, for a change in plan or extra time. I will not forget how a request by 2 of us from the group to include Chitkul, the last village on the Indo-China border beyond Sangla, Kinnaur was acceded to. It is not often you find tour organisers willing to even listen to on-the-spot requests leave alone trying to make them happen. Or an unscheduled stop because a certain dhaba looked inviting and the fragrance of samosas was too enticing! Not to forget the innumerable photo stops. All of this done with a smile, but without allowing the day’s itinerary and time schedule to get disturbed.

WeGoBond’s research and eye for detail was obvious throughout our 10 day trip. Their professionalism showed in their choice of vehicles, the drivers who navigated the difficult roads (sometimes non-existent) with confidence and patience, in their endeavor to make long, backbreaking road journeys more pleasant by including a specially put together song medley on personalized pen drives and in their choice of accommodation.

Our trip began from Chandigarh on Day 1 where the group converged from different parts of India. It was about an 8 hour drive to Narkanda our first halt for the night with lunch and a tea stop thrown in. Narkanda was cloudy and misty and we glimpsed a beautiful sunset before we headed to our rooms to freshen up and then to bond over a bonfire. We were all meeting as strangers and who knew then that 10 days down the line we would part as thick friends?

Day 2 was one of our longest days in terms of driving hours on really bad stretches of treacherous roads. However, it was also the beginning of fulfilling sights, moving along the River Sutlej, crossing curves and winding roads which brought forth the adrenalin rush. The drive ended in Sangla where we were hosted in tents in the middle of a beautiful apple orchard. We also celebrated the birthday of one of the travellers in the group with much gusto and song.

Day 3: Happiest we were when the tour coordinator announced the possibility of adding a detour to Chitkul, the last village on the Indo-China border. The drive from Sangla to Chitkul was a heavenly one and Chitkul has a beauty which left us mesmerized.. An hour in Chitkul and then we backtracked our way to Karcham from where again we drove along the Sutlej till we reached the confluence of the Sutlej and the Spiti rivers. Changing course to move along Spiti we left the dense wooded forest and verdant greens to move into Spitian landscape of barren mud mountains. Our halt tonight was at Nako in another campsite quite at a height.

Day 4: An early morning village walk to Nako Lake and the monastery and we were off to Tabo, an almost entirely Buddhist village boasting of a monastery built in 900 AD. The monastery has some exquisite paintings and frescoes and is often called the Ajanta of Spiti. Some meditation caves in the hills added to the mystique.

Day 5: Tabo to Kaza was a surreal drive through the Pin Valley. We were lucky that it had opened up. Till a few days prior to our arrival Pin Valley access road had been obstructed by a sudden landslide which had made the region inaccessible for over a month. Pin Valley brought the best of barren mountains and the river interspersed with green fields. A quick visit to the Gwe monastery to see the mummy remains of a Buddhist monk and then we were off to Kibber via Kaza.

Day 6: The evening before at Kibber was one which will remain as my most favorite memory of the trip. High, literally on a high, at 14000+feet we could reach out and touch the clouds or pluck the stars. It was moment of connect with divinity. Kibber itself is a small village laid out in a bowl surrounded by fields and snowcapped peaks. The homestay which hosted us was very inviting as were our hosts. The night was spent on their mud roof in silence with friends and nature. This was also what had been our most dreaded moment ” the dry toilet which was only a hole in the ground”. Suffice to say that hygiene and sanitation conditions in Kibber far surpassed those of the cities!

Day 7: At Kaza, a free day and how lovely it was. To be able to stop and stare, to be able to stand and breathe, to not get into a car. This break was very welcome and again it was very thoughtful on the part of WeGoBond to have factored this in. Hotel Deyzor, our home in Kaza, was paradise and deserves a post by itself.

Day 8: It was time to bid goodbye to Kaza and Spiti and make our way towards Kunzum Pass and Chandratal Lake. Today’s and the following days drives were to be breathtakingly spectacular but back breaking. Long drives of 10 hours at high altitudes. It was only the music, the extraordinary views and our own laughter which saw us through. The night was spent camping at a site about 2kms away from Chandratal Lake. The lake did not offer us its best views as it was cloudy and had begun to rain because of which we got only about half an hour in all. A little bit of an anti-climax for one of the high points of the trip.

Day 9: Chandratal to Manali was on a road which was non-existent, full of overflowing nallahs, rocks and stones and jerks. It is a wonder we arrived in Manali a good 10-11 hours later in one piece. However, Baikunth Resorts and a good hot shower energized us once more as we took off for a farewell dinner, tinged with bittersweet sadness.

Day 10: Yes, it was time to go home laden with precious memories, and new friendships. A long drive through Kullu Valley along the Beas brought us to Chandigarh and we boarded the Shatabdi yet again . It was not an adieu bit only an au revoir, till we meet again.

Photographs credit by – Jayanti Pandey

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Huddled inside a lavvu, a Sami tent, around a blazing pinewood fire, we binged on coffee and “almost homemade cake”—almostbecause Knut, our guide for the night, bought the chocolate cake with coconut and sugar dusted on top from a store and sliced it in the kitchen at his home! We learnt from him about the Sami. Historically known as Laps or Laplanders, they are the natives inhabiting, primarily, the countries of Norway, Sweden, and Finland. They gained recognition as indigenous people in Norway following the Indigenous and Tribal Peoples Convention, 1989 (ILO convention 169), and are thereby entitled special rights and protection. They herd reindeer for a living and are the only people to legally own the animal.

Sharing laughter and stories, and more cake, we awaited the appearance of Aurora on a bitterly cold January night in Kvaløya (commonly, Whale Island), an island some 30 kilometres away from Tromsø. The hands on the clock marched on. Seven to eight, nine, and then ten, still no show except a faint glimmer of hope, like a wispy cloud. Soon clouds started to drift on the vast canvas overhead. The moon peered through the cloud-blanket to greet us, a silent nod, before disappearing. The wind grew stronger, colder. As a legend goes, whistling or singing teases the Lights into appearing. Someone hummed I gotta feeling that tonight’s gonna be a good, good night; the rest of us chimed in. Would the Elusive Aurora pay us a visit tonight?

Aurora, or polar lights, is a natural display of light near the northern and southern magnetic poles, caused when charged particles from the sun come in contact with atoms in the upper reaches of the Earth’s atmosphere. While it is known as Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) over the Arctic, it is called Aurora Australis (Southern Lights) over the Antarctic. Up until a century ago very little was known about what caused this natural phenomenon. Ancient Chinese legends held the Lights to be a battle between gods and fire-breathing dragons. The Cree of North America considered them to be the spirits of the departed souls trying to communicate with those they left behind. In Greenland they were thought to be the souls of stillborn babies. The French considered them to be bad omen, bringing along plague, war, death, when they saw the sky turning red weeks before the French Revolution. The Estonians believed them to be horse-drawn carriages carrying heavenly guests to a celestial wedding. A myth in Finland notes how an Arctic fire fox ran so swift across the sky that its bushy tail brushed against the mountains and caused sparks that lit up the night sky (the Finnish word for the Northern Lights is revontulet, or fire fox). In Sweden, the Lights were seen as a portent of good news.


Photo courtesy: Knut of Tromsø Friluftsenter

The Sami thought them to be an ill omen and that they will come down and slice your head off, while Norse mythology held that Aurora was the glowing arch which led the fallen warriors to the final resting place in Valhalla. In modern times, author Molly Larkin has remarked: “When I look at the northern lights … I see our ancestors dancing around a sacred fire, lighting the way for us when it’s time for us to cross over from this physical world and join them.”

The Lights are stunningly beautiful but also extremely temperamental. Dependent on clear, dark skies, viewing them also rests on luck. There are various sites and apps that inform you when and where to view the Lights—norway-lights.com being one such source—but never consider them a guarantee. It is after all a natural phenomenon. In north Europe, the Scandinavian countries are the best bet: Reykjavík and Kirkjufell mountain in Iceland; Tromsø, Lofoten Islands, Nordkapp, Kirkenes, and deep in the Norwegian Sea in Norway; Kiruna and Abisko in Sweden; Rovaniemi in Finland; as also north Greenland, Alaska, Canada. People from all over the world flock to these destinations for a glimpse of the magical skies.

A Northern Lights tour is one of the most sought-after trips on bucket lists in recent decades: many travel companies offer group as well as customised tours deep in the European winter; the best time to view the Lights. Toasting marshmallows in the fire, I heard someone recount that while on a mission to buy essentials for this adventure to Norway, a store in Chennai (a city that has never seen snow nor experienced cold nights) ran out of winter wear because a group of ninety-odd people were headed to Iceland!

A little after ten, I dragged myself out to gaze up at the sky only to find myself rushing back to the lavvu to thaw my frozen self. Even when suitably armoured with about five layers of fleece and thermals, the cold found its way in somehow. Minus twenty-seven was no joke! I was in the “middle of snow-where”—away from the city lights and “Chasing the Lights”, as the flyer read. But in reality we chase clear, dark skies—Knut corrected us while passing yet more cake to the bunch. Correct, but “chasing the lights” sounds more dreamy, wouldn’t you agree?

Eleven, the clock announced. The clouds decided to stay. We did too, unlike another group on a similar mission that proceeded towards the Finnish border. Eleven-twenty-five. Did the clouds decide to part? No. The wait seemed never-ending. Once again I found my way back around the fire, disappointed. I prepared myself for a no-show; there were three more nights yet for the chase. Deciding to call it a night, we began to pack up, retract the tripods, and pile on layers to brave the cold till we reached the bus.

Eleven-forty. “One last try,” Knut said. He checked the KP index and silently stepped out. Seconds later he screamed, “Guys, come out and see!”

Photo courtesy: Knut of Tromsø Friluftsenter

What was that?

The moon had bidden farewell and it was dark all around. The stars glimmered in the ink-black sky. Only once before have I seen such a clear, dark sky studded with so many stars—on a camping trip to Mukteshwar, situated high in the Kumaon Hills of north India. The KP index showed a 4. Good enough chance? Suddenly the sky lit up a pale green and we could see each other and around clearly. The Lights! Aurora Borealis! The snow shone, the sky danced. One long streak flashed from right to left. Another intersected it at a forty-degree angle. A sea horse galloped behind us, a reindeer’s head flashed before us, a chariot drove at a distance. Among this, a shooting star shot through a green-and-purple performance.

I squealed, I gasped. I screamed with joy, I exclaimed with awe. The others echoed the same enthusiasm. Knut photographed us, with wonder and excitement in our eyes. Jaymes Young’s song played in my head: I wanna touch the northern lights/ We could leave the world behind. I jumped but fell into the snow. Sometimes faint, sometimes stark, the imaginary formations swirled and shimmied across the sky, a symphony of colours. Then they faded away. But within minutes they picked up because I was still waiting with bated breath. I could not help but smile, brushing aside the tears of joy with the back of my chilled glove. Around twelve-thirty, we began to pack up. The Aurora danced across the sky, with her skirt in shades of green and purple sweeping across the vast expanse. Impossible to capture on film unless you are armed with a manual camera with the correct settings; nevertheless I was here to experience it.

The Lights were there to stay the night. I froze, but did not mind. I danced under the dancing Arctic sky. January 24, 2018. A date well marked in my journal. For, I will remember this as the day when the skies unfolded. As I inched towards fulfilling my long-cherished dream, the sky turned green with envy. I went with my gut and it did turn out to be one of the most memorable travel experiences.

Aurora Borealis. The Northern Lights. # 1 on my bucket list even before I had a bucket list. CHECK

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Menchuka means medicinal water of snow. I am tempted to interpret it as divine land in the lap of snow. Pristine and untouched, vouched for by the lack of good roads leading to it.In fact, every stone that juts out on the path, making it an extremely bumpy drive leading to this slice of heaven, is proof that man’s greedy eyes have only just begun to settle on it.Hills, mountains, rivers, valleys, and…hold your breath, quaint and exotic wooden and bamboo bridges – you name it and you have it by the dozen. Variety of flora that you could lose count of, each more exotic than the other.

Well, what or where is this Menchuka?
It is a small valley town nestled 6000 feet above sea level in the West Siang district of Arunachal Pradesh, the land touched by the first rays of the sun! For fact collectors, it is considered the last village before the McMahon Line dividing India and China. Beyond Yorlong, civilians are not allowed and the area is patrolled by the 13 Kumaon Regiment. While visiting the town, it is worthwhile visiting this place and saluting the soldiers, who have traded the comfort and security of family life, for this perilous vigil so that you and I sleep in peace…

One gets to this place, first by reaching Dibrugarh in Assam, then ferrying across the mighty Brahmaputra river from Bhogibeel Ghat, and thence to Pasighat, Arunachal Pradesh by road. The ferry experience is no ordinary one. Along with us, our SUV vehicles are also loaded on the ferry and carried across the river. Hats off to our young and incredibly brave and talented drivers!

Pasighat is the headquarters of East Siang district. Its around 150m above sea level and from here starts the ascent to Aalo or Along. The roads are bone rattlingly bumpy but the scenic beauty takes your breath away. You almost forget the physical discomfort when you feast your eyes on the ethereal surroundings.

Wild banana trees, growing in such profusion with the purple flowers that we normally see, along with orange and pink flowers which we never knew existed. Of course, there are all varieties of bamboos and pines too. And sooo many other plants and wild flowers that you could spend a lifetime studying them. Arunachal is home to the exquisite orchids and to see them casually blooming in the wild, one feels as if they are teasing you! And throughout the course, we follow the Siang River. Siang is formed by the confluence of Yomgo(China) and Siyom(Tibet). Siyom flows through Menchuka and as we drive towards Aalo from Menchuka, we see the sangam of the green Siyom and the blue Yomgo to form the Siang. Just for information, Siang is joined by Lohit and Dibang to form the Brahmaputra! So Brahmaputra enters India from Arunachal Pradesh. The route is not exactly teeming with eating joints but the few and far between ones are located at very scenic spots. We stopped at one near an incredibly tall waterfall and had the tastiest Maggi for lunch. You get dal roti too.

The most preferred form of accommodation is Homestays in Aalo and probably the only form currently available in Menchuka.
A visit to the tribal villages in Aalo was an eye opening experience. The architecture of villages in mountains is very different from those in plains.
Levelling is of prime importance here. Hence all houses are built on stilts. Bamboo and palm leaves are the main ingredients. The huts, are basic, need based, neat, practical, and look deceptively fragile. But, these are very sturdy and have stood the test of time. No frills, no cluttering. It leads one to wonder, who taught these simple people physics, maths, and engineering that they built such scientifically sound structures? Its ironical that long long back, when there was no organized form of education as we know it today, man probably knew more about nature, .. and himself. These simple people teach you the most profound lesson that, all that there is to be known, lies within us.

Another bumpy drive takes you down to a valley and you rub your eyes and pinch yourself to believe it’s real. It is…..Menchuka…
The homestay here is Gebo’s Lodge. I think that’s the best part of the trip. This living with the inmates, sitting in their kitchen, watching them go about their daily chores, while the lady of the house cooks meals, giving us an update about the latest gossip, chiding her husband, admonishing her kids….What better way to get the real feel of this place and see the lifestyle of the people?

I can still taste the thukpa(their khichri),momos(the lady taught us and we prepared them!) and butter chai(with salt)served around a fireplace with such simplicity that it at once warms the mouth and the heart.
Actually, the area south of the McMahon Line, now officially part of India, was inhabited by Tibetans. Hence, the cuisine. Rice beer brewed from rice and millet is the favourite alcoholic drink here. Customs and traditions have been developed that enable the people to adjust to nature and revere it, rather than manipulate and destroy it.
Even birds chirp and tweet contentedly and nod their deep satisfaction to belong where man and mountain are at peace with each other.

The local religion is DonyiPolo (Sun-Moon), which is heavily influenced by Hinduism, in worshipping nature and the philosophy of maintaining balance of nature. It is believed to be the land where Sage Parashurama washed away his sins and where Lord Krishna married Rukmini. Massive conversions in the mid and late 20th century by Catholic Christians has led to Christianity being a major religion here. Buddhism is also followed and Menchuka has some of the oldest monasteries of Arunachal Pradesh.

There are a few Buddhist monasteries on mountain tops, so that calls for a great trekking experience, not for the level of difficulty but for the sheer views.

One can have one’s fill of walking on wooden and bamboo bridges for there are plenty of rivers in Menchuka. A meditative experience, for one has to be totally focussed on the next step while walking on these deceptively simple contraptions. And when you are right at the center of the bridge, the way it swings, can be nerve racking!
Ultimately, the elegant magnolias, the majestic rhododendrons, and the elusive orchids of Menchuka teach you that no matter where you mark the compass of your journey, the real destination lies within.

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Great company, fun adventures….
The Journey

We were nine ladies – cutting across ages, cultures and cities but united in our determination to enjoy our little holiday together. We chose the night train to Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh for its convenience and by 8:30 we had set off.

Imagine a compartment full of enthusiastic strangers getting to know one another, snacking, assessing their sleeping arrangements and chatting up other travellers (hi Elisabeth and Antara) – all at the same time! I had been a little apprehensive at first about holidaying with strangers (I had never done that before) but was at ease very soon. Everyone was chatty and friendly.

By 9 the next morning we were packed into two Innovas. After some strategic jostling for the ‘best’ seats, we set off from Khajuraho for Panna. The easy camaraderie made way for colourful conversation on rurban India, lush mustard fields, milch cows and the quality of roads. After navigating an impossibly bumpy stretch, we reached our destination two hours after we set off from Khajuraho station.

Panna, Madhya Pradesh

The Ken River Lodge was a beauty. Think of a resort overlooking a river, tucked among a forest, boasting a tree which doubles up as a dining room and lounge bar. It was a stunning first exposure to nature for us city types.

We would go on to stay 2 nights in comfortable and large huts with noisy tin roofs, and pig out on impossibly delicious food – I still dream of the aloo puri breakfast. And I definitely www.viagrasansordonnancefr.com can’t forget my new friends singing and dancing on my birthday. But the show stopper in Panna had to be the tigress and her family the following morning. We watched in quiet wonder as she majestically emerged from the forest, ambled up to the river with her two cubs and then lazed in the sun by the river bank before walking away. Life was wonderful after that – the pre-dawn start was so worth it, the morning cold didn’t matter any more, and the packed sandwiches never tasted better!

Khajuraho,Madhya Pradesh

The Chandela Rajput rulers clearly loved their temples because the dynasty kept contributing to this complex over a period of 250 years between the 10th and 12th centuries. Some 25 of the original 80 survive and they are dedicated to the Shaivite and Vaishnav schools of Hinduism and to Jainism.
The main (western) complex is easily explorable on foot with beautiful landscaped gardens. The temples themselves
are stunning examples of art, architecture, scientific prowess and local culture, depicting life as it was about a thousand years ago : We saw Gods, animals and human forms ; courtship and love making, war, music and dancing, wrestling and hunting.

Our extremely thorough guide informed us that only 10% of the carvings were erotic art. Yet, I was struck by the unabashed celebration of sex and womanhood. The kamasutra poses were prominently displayed at eye level on the main walls of the temples and panel after panel showed gorgeously proportioned female forms putting on makeup, doing their hair, playing games, tying and untying their girdles, playing musical instruments etc. Wish our self-styled guardians of Hindu culture could be equally chilled about the pursuit of pleasure and women’s role in society.

I should say that the temple town seems to relish its tourist appeal – there were plenty of souvenir shops, Internet cafes and restaurants, motels and hotels, guides and touts. The dance festival performances on our day in town were underwhelming as was the food at Raja Cafe. But what it lacked in food, it made up in ambience – we thoroughly enjoyed our evening under a neem tree in the courtyard.

Bandavgarh, Madhya Pradesh

Or Bandargarh as we may as well call it. We took two jungle safaris – in Magdhi and Tala zones – but lucked out both times and that too at a park where, they say, every visitor is guaranteed a sighting! We saw plenty of monkeys, and also deer (cheetal, chinkara and sambar) and birds, nilgai, sloth bear and wild boar. We dutifully followed the alarm calls of deer and monkeys and waited patiently (and silently) for the big cat to show up. We even sent up a few silent prayers but it wasn’t meant to be.

Yet, the safaris weren’t a total waste of time. Tala zone was very striking in its terrain and natural beauty: mostly plateaus and hills and copses of flaming palash trees. We saw the stunning ancient Shesh Shaiya statue of a reclining Vishnu and shivling, and the memorial to Charger – a legendary male tiger who earned his name after he charged at an elephant carrying tourists. He was fearless, apparently commanded the largest territory in the park and was quite the hit with the females. We booked our safaris through King’s Lodge where we stayed and the resort was perfect with luxurious rooms, very friendly staff, and delicious food.

Soon it was time to go home but each one us would have happily stayed on for a bit longer ….. in a WeGoBondof great company and fun adventures.